LOL

Lenny Russo rules for bluntly stating what the rest of us are always thinking:

"As for Kathie Jenkins, she is a real piece of work. The woman has no integrity, and I'm sure Steven doesn't give a sh** about what she said. It's just important for him to let his staff know they are doing good work and to ignore that drivel. She loves to show up on opening night and lambast us when we aren't in her opinion quite up to speed. In addition she has a horrible palate. That is not opinion; that is fact. When she reviewed Heartland she complained that her pasta was overly drenched in olive oil. Heartland is a Midwestern restaurant, and there is not a single drop of olive oil in the entire house. Her sauce was a reduction of cognac and cream, but she couldn't possibly know that since, as I stated, she has a horrible palate; and unlike every other critic and writer in town she doesn't fact check. Her review of Heartland was replete with inaccuracies and out and out fabrications which she refused to retract even though they were pointed out to both her and to her editor. Her lack of professional ethics is not limited to reviews of my work. She seems to like to spread it around fairly generously to those of us who choose to do more than serve meatloaf and mashed potatoes. I also would not be surprised if someone told me that "Hyperbole" is her middle name. She can exaggerate and fling around insults like no other. Still, she is entitled to her opinion no matter how ill informed and uneducated it may be. The Pioneer Press is ultimately the responsible party here for allowing her to get away with that crap."

I've blasted Kathie Jenkins a time or two on this blog, but never with such razor-sharp precision.

Comments

[Aliecat]

Chef/critic wars make me so happy...

[Alexis]

I generally think the wars are petty (the term "ax to grind" comes to mind) but in this case... well, I've long taken issue with her reviews.

[Max "Bunny" Sparber]

It's surprisingly common for critics to not really know anything about what they write about. A serious critic will make certain to learn what they need to know, and a serious editor will make sure they do. Unfortunately, both seem to be in short supply nowadays.

[Jim Flynn]

Alexis, funny you blogged on Kathie today. Chef Andrew blogged on her a couple of days ago at http://msp.blogs.com/chowandagain/2008/03/mistaken-identi.html with some rather unkind words.

Tonight I was going to visit the Chophouse in Bloomington for the first time (new steakhouse). I googled it to check out the menu and up pops a review from Kathie Jenkins. She said she couldn't understand why there wasn't a Pork Chop on the menu.

Well guess what, there IS a monster pork chop on the menu. Her review is here http://www.hotel-online.com/News/2008_Feb_21/k.SPA.1203704823.html

[sxoidmal]

That's fantastic. I don't even know who this Kathie Jenkins is, but now I want to go through and find some of her old stuff and learn what the deal is. You know, like someone just burst into the room and asked if I wanted to see a dead body.

[Tara]

It has been my experience that most papers are so desperate to just find somebody that write reasonably well, that film critics, restaurant critics, music critics, and sports reporters & columnist are rarely, if ever, required to actually understand the beat they are reporting on.

Basically, if you own a copy of Strunk & White and are willing to work for the kind of peanuts a newspaper offers, you're in.

Studies have shown that most people buy newspapers mainly for the crossword & horoscope. The rest of the content is usually just wire stories and filler, and most people don't seem to mind.

If I want to find a good restaurant, I'm far more likely to ask a friend than open a paper.

[Joanna]

Tara, could it be because you've been reading crappy papers? There are excellent food critics who are not only good writers, but know about good food, good service, and about the restaurant business. They will be able to communicate to attentive readers whether or not they will be getting value for their money or overpriced crap. Since I don't have a lot of money, but I do like really good food, I would like to have some information before I make that reservation. I trust the judgement of Jeremy Iggers or Dara Moskowitz, for example, because they actually talk about why they think something is good or not good. I've learned to respect them as professionals because they are consistent. They don't just offer an opinion, they explain something so I can make up my mind. We all have opinions, but experts have knowledge and experience and a good food critic is able to educate the public as well. Kathie Jenkins is not respected professionally for the reasons that Lenny offers--she just doesn't do a good job. In fact, I use her as a negative example. If she likes it, I probably won't.

[Tara]

Tara, could it be because you've been reading crappy papers?

Well, I do live in the Twin Cities. That pretty much answers your question right there, doesn't it?

[M]

There are certainly some very good food writers in the Twin Cities. Kathy is not one of them. I have been in the restaurant business for over 25 years and much of that time has been spent in Minneapolis and the surrounding communities. I have been reviewed by all of the writers. Jeremy Iggers (almost always gets it right), Kathy Jenkins (almost always gets it wrong), Andrew Zimern (can't cook but has very good opinions on food), Dara (if she knows you, you are in, if not you are screwed), Peter Lillenthal (old school and knows his shit), Rick Nelson (the champion of the chef/owner and really knows food, service and genuinely cares).

But the best way to find a really good restaurant is to ask the people in the business. What do I talk with the Chef about standing around the kitchen before service? Where is the best Pho? What is the best thing you eaten lately? What did you think of 20.21 last night? Have you been to the Strip Club( the restaurant)? Who is the best cook in town?

I have worked with Steven, Doug, Tim and Josh, Vincent, JP, Lenny, Larry D., and know most of the Chefs at the really good restaurants in town… and they all have their favorite cooks and their favorite dishes around town. Ask them where they go to eat. Most of us in this business don’t plop down huge cash on our days off. We search out great interesting food at a good value.

I can guarantee that if you go to The King and I, Origami, 112 Eatery, or Pho on a Sunday or Monday night, you are going to run in to a bunch of Chefs, Sous and their crews out for good food and reasonable prices.